It's important to align the top CPU mounting kit properly, as it will only go one way correctly. The stainless steel clip that fits into the front plastic mounting frame is asymmetrical, so the outermost stand must always either point to the back or bottom of the case (see below) as the instructions will remind you.

If you haven't guessed, seal string is a vital component that we need yet again to mount the evaporator head onto the motherboard. First though, we apply a very thin layer of Arctic Alumina thermal paste to the processor heat spreader. Arctic Alumina is pretty good compound, and will not freeze up completely.

Place some seal string around the perimeter of the evaporator head (see above), then position the head onto the front CPU socket plate. Screw the unit in through the two holes, then place two globs of seal string over the screw holes to seal them up. The entire cell should now be air tight, which will reduce issues of frost and condensation due to the low temperature of the cooling head. Be careful not to tighten the fixture too much, doing so will cause the motherboard to warp.

While the above procedures sound like a lot of work, they are actually quite easy as long as you follow the instructions. As PCSTATS' staffer will testify, having used both the Prometeia and Vapochill brand phase-change coolers, the ECT way works best in the long run. Some other products involve gunking up the motherboard and processor with messy silicon/dielectric grease to maintain control of condensation.

The seal string itself is basically a black mastic-like material, sort of along the lines of material used with double-pane windows. It is sticky, and must be applied to a dust-free surface in order to work. Yet, while it sticks to just about anything, it's pretty easy to remove from the motherboard. If there are trace amounts of seal string left on the PCB, simply stick a bit more onto those spots, then pull it off. You'll find that seal string clumps together.

Once all the hardware has been installed, there are a few power and data cables to attach. First and foremost is the two pin rear Kapton heater power cable; without that, the back of the motherboard could possibly freeze up. Next are the power connectors and finally the molex connection. The computer PSU doesn't actually supply power to the Mach II GT. It's simply there to detect system power, which allows the cooling system to turn on.

The computer power on case switch connects to the Prometeia, so that when you press the power button on the PC it first turns the Mach II GT on to pre-cool. When the Mach II GT reaches its "booting temperature" (-33C by default) the cooler then turns on the computer system. All of these cables we've just described go up alongside the cold head arm into the computer above, so from the outside nothing is visible.